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Thread: Help with Electrical

  1. Help with Electrical

    Just got my car back from the stereo shop where they wired in the new stereo. Some of you may have seen the other thread that I started about my double din install. I'll have pics up later today or tomorrow of the finished install.. Looks awesome and I'm stoked to play with it.

    I have three issues that I need help with:

    1. I think the stereo guy messed up my oil temp gauge when he pulled it. When I had it apart I saw it was a solid cable that hit the gauge in the back. What's the proper way to remove that probe and if he's screwed it up, can it be repaired, or does a new lead need to be fabricated? I'm not familiar at all with how those temperature gauges work.

    2. For some reason my turn signal started acting up on me last week (separate issue from stereo). It indicates when I turn left, but not right. Signal lights still work as far as I know, just no bulb. Does each side run off a separate fuse?

    3. I (think) my alternator is quitting on me, although I can't be sure. Voltage on my meter is topping out at 11.5V, but won't drop over the course of driving. Is there anything behind the dash that would affect alternator charging that I may have inadvertently affected during my install, or is this likely a separate issue? Stereo guy said the car died on him when he was working on it. I noticed the low voltage when I was driving to him, so I know it wasn't him that did anything.

    Thanks, guys!

  2. #2
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    I can comment on the oil temp gauge (don't know much of anything about the other issues). That gauge uses a bulb-type sensor with a gas filled line (capillary) that runs from the bulb in the oil pan all the way to the gauge. Unfortunately, if the tube between the bulb and gauge is kinked or damaged in any way at all, the gauge won't work and it cannot be repaired. That is, replacing the complete package (gauge, line and bulb are one unit) is the only way to fix it. (Don't ask me how I know. )

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNoble1 View Post
    1. I think the stereo guy messed up my oil temp gauge when he pulled it. When I had it apart I saw it was a solid cable that hit the gauge in the back. What's the proper way to remove that probe and if he's screwed it up, can it be repaired, or does a new lead need to be fabricated? I'm not familiar at all with how those temperature gauges work.
    The probe isn't user-serviceable or removable - it's a capillary tube that runs all the way from the probe end to the gauge. You would have to pull the whole gauge/probe assembly, and either replace it all, or send it over to us for repair. I think we may even have a gauge in stock, but I'd have to check. Contact Hoover if you're interested. One thing - removing the temp probe from the oil pan will leave a hole that's below the oil level in the sump, so you either have to have a plug for the hole ready, or you have to drain all the oil from the car, or both. When you reinstall the gauge, you need to be really careful not to kink or sharply bend the capillary tube...

    2. For some reason my turn signal started acting up on me last week (separate issue from stereo). It indicates when I turn left, but not right. Signal lights still work as far as I know, just no bulb. Does each side run off a separate fuse?
    By "no bulb", do you mean the indicator light on the console doesn't flash on right turns, but the exterior lights flash correctly? If so, it sounds like the indicator light on the console isn't wired right. One leg of the indicator light should be hooked up to the green wire with yellow stripe, which is hot on left turns, and the other leg of the indicator light should be hooked up to the green wire with black stripe, which is hot on right turns.

    3. I (think) my alternator is quitting on me, although I can't be sure. Voltage on my meter is topping out at 11.5V, but won't drop over the course of driving. Is there anything behind the dash that would affect alternator charging that I may have inadvertently affected during my install, or is this likely a separate issue? Stereo guy said the car died on him when he was working on it. I noticed the low voltage when I was driving to him, so I know it wasn't him that did anything.
    If you're only seeing 11.5 volts, then the alternator definitely isn't working - you should usually see over 13 volts on a running car. The first thing I'd check is if the alternator light on the center console lights up with the engine off/key on in "run" position. That light supplies the field current to the alternator - if it doesn't light, the alternator won't start charging.

  4. Cruddy.. so my oil temp gauge is FUBAR. Perfect.

    For the indicator, the turn signal works for a left hand turn, but not the left hand turn. Two wires to that light, or are there three (one more for ground?)

    Re: alternator, are you saying that the light somehow controls the alternator charging? (That light supplies the field current to the alternator - if it doesn't light, the alternator won't start charging). I believe the light does come on with the key. Both the oil light and the (!) light come on during startup.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheNoble1 View Post
    For the indicator, the turn signal works for a left hand turn, but not the left hand turn. Two wires to that light, or are there three (one more for ground?)
    Two wires. It seems kind of weird, but it grounds back through the side that's not on at the time. BTW, this won't work if you change the light to an LED.

    Re: alternator, are you saying that the light somehow controls the alternator charging? (That light supplies the field current to the alternator - if it doesn't light, the alternator won't start charging). I believe the light does come on with the key. Both the oil light and the (!) light come on during startup.
    Yes, power comes through the light, then goes to the field coil in the alternator. Once the alternator starts turning and putting out voltage, it self- energizes the field coil, but to get it to start, you need to initially feed power to the field coil from somewhere else. In this case, the dash light.

  6. Would swapping to LEDs for the indicator light cause the alternator issue?

    That is the explanation for my turn signal issue. I wonder if that would also be the problem for the alternator?

  7. #7
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    You can be sure old Joe Lucas never heard of an LED .
    Last edited by Joel; 01-09-13 at 09:07 PM.

  8. Sigh.. So in my excitement to get the gauges swapped to LED, I pitched my old BA7 bulbs for the indicators... Anyone know where I can get some, post-haste?

    EDIT: never mind.. I was searching for the wrong bulbs. The 3898 is what I should have been after...
    Last edited by TheNoble1; 01-09-13 at 04:20 PM.

  9. #9
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    Yup, the alternator problem is most likely caused by changing to an LED.

    You may be able to get the LED turn signal indicator working with a few diodes, and the LED alternator light working properly with a resistor or two, but it's something I haven't tried to figure out yet...

  10. #10
    you cant swop the normal bulbs for LED's for the indicators or the alternator light.... for the alternator light I retained the original one behind the dash and had the LED displaying, so you can just add the old one back into the loom and it will work.

    For the indicators its a little more complicated, basically the positive and negative reverse depending upon direction indicated... an LED only has one possitive and negative and cant be reversed hence it works one way not the other.
    You can as others have done fit resistors diodes etc to solve... what I did was fit another indicator so I have one for each direction... looks ok on mine as I have my LED's all under my dash clocks in front of driver so an indicator each side like a normal car lol.

    As others have said you pressure guage is toast now...

    looking forward to seeing pics of you stereo install

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